The Keiki Headache

     About a week ago Evan, Ghent, and I headed up to the north shore.  It was just before the Pipeline Competition so all of the surfing world was here trying to practice for the comp, prove themselves, and piss off the locals.  I hate the Triple Crown because of the congestion it creates in and out of the water.  We stopped at off the wall and watched it for about a half an hour.  There were no body boarders out and literally about a hundred surfers spread out at Off The Wall and Backdoor.  The waves were really good and a couple of the surfers really scored some sick barreling waves.   Not wanting to deal with the crowd we checked log cabins.   It wasn't very good so we ended up heading over to Keiki's even though the last thing i wanted to surf that day was a shore break.  We watched it for about a half an hour because we were chatting with the grom's.  We took a while mainly because Evan was fiddling with his camera.  If you know Evan, you know that when he's trying to figure out settings on his camera he somehow goes deaf and doesn't hear anything you say.  After talking to a brick wall and contemplating whether we were going to surf or not we came to the decision that Ghent would shoot photos while Evan and I try to pull in some heavy close outs.  My first wave pretty much was my best wave of the day.  I lucked out on it because it was one of the cleaner, bigger sets.  When I pulled in the wave pitched over and threw really hard.  I'll always remember that split second being in that room because of how wide and clean the barrel was. You literally could have fit a handicap bus in there.

     Clark Little showed up and if you don't know who that is he is one of the best shore break photographer's from the North Shore.  Not only does he put himself into really sketchy situations he will get the shot doing it.  Sets started to roll in again and I happened to get another one of the bigger sets.  Although I air dropped it I stuck the landing and rode it out till it closed out on me.  Clark captured it all and it was kind of a cool sequence.  It was not the best but I'm still pretty stoked on it.  It also shows me what I can change about my posture and those ridiculous looking face expressions.

  

Photo's by Clark Little

  
     I paddle back out and sets start coming again.  Evan gets the first one but nose dives and gets sucked under the lip of the wave.  I look towards the beach and I can see Ghent chuckle a bit.  Another wave comes and by this time there is foam everywhere from the first wave, a little turbulence in the water, and back wash going back out to sea.  I knew I shouldn't have gone for this wave but hearing Clark yell "going!",  didn't convince me to stop paddling.  I paddled for it and while I was dropping in, the backwash lifted me off the face of the wave and sent me face first into the bottom leaving my board behind.  I face planted hitting my head on the sand and then got thrashed under water.  I grabbed my board still kind of dazed and paddled back out only to get another wave break on my head while i tried to duck dive it.  Somehow my board smacked me right in the nose and one of my fins got ripped off. Exhausted from the situation I went in and through the towel in for the day.

 

Photo's by Clark Little

  
     Evan stayed out for a little longer linking up with Clark Little.  Evan really knows how to surf shore breaks.  His nerve and skill really shine at Keiki's.  The sun was about to set so we piled in my Suzuki Sidekick while checking out the footage Ghent got.  While we drove home my head started to pound and by the time we got home I had one of the most painful headaches I've ever had.   I think I might have had a small concussion.  I asked my roommates for a blessing and don't ask me how he got it but Ted gave me a 800 mg Ibuprofen.  I napped for about two hours and when I woke up my headache was completely gone.  I was stoked because that night was one of my good friends party, and Kawika Kau'i is known to the throw the best dance parties.  I showed up, cut the rug, almost got a seizure from the strobe lights, and chilled with some friends.

Lindsay Lohan & The Gentleman's Club

Aloha My Bruddah's and Seestah's,

     Today marks my conversion to online blasphemy.  I was convinced by the members of my new found home "The Gentleman's Club".  Three of the people I live with are some of the classiest male figures Ive ever known and they are Theodore Davis, Ian Patton, and Paul Clonts.  My roommate is Evan Fa who is also my bradda from anadda madda and the biggest influence to me on the boogie.  I like living with Evan because not only have I gained a new wardrobe I also get to eat Acai bowls everyday.  Clark Cahoon is also staying here and he is the Kelly Slater in couch surfing.  He does it all from hanging ten, busting airs, and his specialty "pu in sai" aka getting barrelled.  Ghent Scott also visited us recently and stayed here for a few days.  He had a few talents like freestyle rapping, clapping with out his hands, and having a string of women eye humping him where ever he went.

The Fa-Bowl.

     This past week has been one to remember for sure.  The opening day of the Pipe contest although not being able to get in the water was really cool to see.  Perfect 10-12 ft pipe barrels were not always coming through but they definitely showed up every once in a while.  On Saturday morning I woke up at 5:30am so I could surf pipe before the comp started.  I didnt get any really good ones but enough to get a wave fix for the morning.  Nakana Rivera and Pypyr Lluellen caught two of the heaviest closeouts of the morning and definitely raised some eyebrows on the beach considering everyone there was more of a Stand up Surfing fan.  I surfed at Velzy Land later, napped on the beach while Evan surfed Keiki's, then finished off the day with another session at Pipe.  I was kind of bummed because the wave that would have made my day I had to straighten out on.  It was a beastly 5 footer that kinda frothed further down the line causing the wave to not setup right.

One of the Gem's rolling through. ph: Clark Cahoon

Little Revo on the inside at V-Land.

    Later that night at a dance party Lindsay Lohan decided to show up.  It was pretty cool and we all had fun with it.  After the party she came back because someone had stolen her 7,000 dollar Chanel purse that had 10,000 dollars cash in it and documents that gave her permission to travel.  Despite all the stories and rumors going around theres no way to be certain what exactly happen and how true any of the stories are.  It did give my friends and I some good laughs though.  Digging through the kitchen drawers looking for knives to stab someone with,  going 80 mph on Laie Point, almost clearing out mailboxes, and going over to the neighbors house to accuse them; that Lindsay Lohan is so out of touch with reality I almost feel bad for her.  Here is a LINK TO THE STORY AT TMZ.  This audio clip was recorded by a friend of mine and it's pretty funny listening to everyone talking because these are some of my friends.

     To finish things off we all went to The Goat House for the 3rd Annual Christmas Party.  Although these get together's are always filled with kook's it was a good time with plenty of Mormon Bubbly, and sitting on Santa's lap.

Till next time,

A Hui Ho!